“Mineral” and “chemical” are often used as opposing categories, although more precise technical terminology distinguishes between inorganic or mineral and organic filters. The choice is not solved with a label: it depends on the spectrum of protection sought, the format, the market, the sensoriality, and the final tests.
How do they work?
Organic filters absorb UV radiation and transform that energy. Authorized mineral filters, such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide under permitted conditions, also absorb radiation and can reflect or scatter a portion. In Europe, only authorized UV filters can be used under the conditions established after their safety assessment. The European Commission explains the framework applicable to UV filters.
Mineral filters: challenges and opportunities
- They fit into mineral formulation strategies and certain natural positioning.
- Particle dispersion is critical for achieving homogeneity and performance.
- They can generate whitening, density, or streaking if the system is not optimized.
- Particle size and the consideration of nanomaterials require regulatory and labeling attention. Consult the official European information on nanomaterials.
Organic filters: challenges and opportunities
- They allow for the construction of broad-spectrum systems with very light and transparent finishes.
- They require studying solubility, crystallization, compatibility, and photostability.
- Selection depends on the format, phase, packaging, and intended exposure.
- A high filter load does not substitute for a balanced design or testing.
What about hybrid formulas?
Combining families can be useful for balancing UVA/UVB coverage, sensoriality, transparency, and robustness. There is no universal architecture. Development must consider emulsification, dispersion or solubilization, antioxidants, film formers, rheology, compatibility with packaging, and actual use.
SPF is not presumed: it is tested
The final performance corresponds to the complete formula and must be confirmed by appropriate methods. The European Commission maintains criteria for the efficacy and claims of sunscreen products. At OKT GLOBAL, we develop and optimize the system before coordinating the necessary tests.